All alone and the sun is going to go down soon... |
Like a character in a Herman
Charles Bosman story, I was once alone in camp with a
leopard. I was at Leshiba Wilderness in the wild and far flung heights of the
Soutpansberg in northern Limpopo. “You gonna be ok alone?” asked owners Kath
and Pete. Sure I replied. I’m a bush gal, I know some tree names in Latin and
I’ve shot beer cans out of dry river beds.
I poured a generous
whizzo and sat on the steps of the camp’s main rondavel for a sunset view of Hamasha gorge and its sideways cliffs
covered in green and yellow lichen. Then I opened the visitors’ book. Awesome leopard sighting said the last
entry, dated from the day before. They saw a leopard? Right here? Yesterday?
The Soutpansberg has a high concentration of leopards |
It’s only impalas I
said sternly to myself when I heard sounds of puffing and snorting a little
later. Still, it was getting dark so I went inside and closed all the windows
and doors, put on some lamps, and decided to cook inside rather. I poured
another whizzo. I mean, the Soutpansberg does have a very high concentration of
leopards you know.
I made pasta, not my
best one ever, and then emboldened by the whisky opened the door and went a
short way outside for a peek at the night skies. I was staring at Orion when I
hear a leopard growl in the gorge – that unmistakable rumble that cut through
the night. I dropped my glass and fled indoors, panting like a fat suburban
Spaniel.
I had more whisky in a
fresh glass. I checked all the windows again and tried to read the magazines to
distract myself but every page I turned showed leopards: leopards chowing
impalas, leopards licking bloodied haunches, leopards yellow teeth…
What a terrible, terrible
night. I could hear the leopard sniffing at the rondavel door, eager to crush my little pasta pot before advancing
upon the bedroom where I lay, a hapless baby impala. Snuffles, grunts, claws
against the door, the window pane misted up with meaty leopard breath. I lay
still and tried not to make a sound which is a hard position to hold for a
night and as the whisky wore off my mouth got dry, but I daren’t move lest the
leopard had somehow slipped in and was waiting in he shower or the bath.
“Oh Lord I made it”, I let
out a long, relieved groan at first light. I was frozen rigid with cold and
fear. I massaged the pins and needles out of my extremities and decided to
leave at once. “You did it girl”, I said weakly to myself and gathered my bags
and camera and headed for the car which was parked next to an acacia tree. I
opened the passenger door and my heart stopped.
Lying on the passenger
seat was a leopard.
I dimly recall the wild
gorge of Hamasha echoing back my screams as I flinched in anticipation of the
first bite to my jugular.
Yiaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!
I was still hanging on
to my camera bag when I opened my eyes. And the leopard was still lying there, somewhat
limply in fact. I looked again and I hate to admit it but the leopard was
actually my Marianne Fassler designer leopard print jersey that I’d casually left
on the car seat the afternoon before.
I took some time to
regain my composure, and I was still rather wide eyed when I went to say farewell
to the good people Pete and Kath before I headed, perhaps a little hastily,
back to Joburg.
“All cool at Hamasha
Camp on your own last night?” They asked.
“Wish I could stay
another night”, I replied, tossing the leopard print jersey nonchalantly over
my shoulder.
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