Thursday 11 August 2016

Soul Dancing, Limpopo


Crooks Corner at sunset. We drink G&T and jump in the air. This is the northern Kruger, meeting of three countries South Africa, Mozambique and Zimbabwe, intersected by the Limpopo and the Luvuvhu rivers. We talk about the early tribes that would have crossed here, then pioneers, smugglers, traders, adventurers; later the dispossessed, war refugees... www.returnafrica.com


Lanner Gorge in the rain. We each take a turn to step onto a lone look-out rock on cliff’s edge - and watch as the Levuvhu River below cuts its ancient course through Lanner Gorge towards its confluence with the Limpopo River.  It’s drizzling and the views are wild; a powerful sense of history hangs in the air...so many stories from the Pafuri Triangle. www.returnafrica.com



Kurisa Moya at dawn. Spirit of the wind. True to its name it’s been blowing all night, roof creaking, trees squeaking, bushbabies shrieking. But at dawn it’s completely still and we awake to a soft, pink day overlooking the Kudu River Valley. This is one of southern Africa’s best eco-tourism spots. Good morning beautiful Limpopo. www.krm.co.za


Leshiba Wilderness in the shower. I am in the dreaming heights of the Soutpansberg mountains in Vhembe. I fall in love with a Venda prince. He is tall and muscled; his hands cupped together invitingly. He wears nothing but a loin cloth. Out of his ear comes a shower head. Aaah, my prince is a shower sculpture at the delightful Venda Village at Leshiba; inspired by legendary artist Noria Mabasa. www.leshiba.co.za


Kings Walden under the lightning tree. We drink, eat, love, laugh, weep and wonder under the lightning tree on my ancestral farm, now a boutique hotel. The tree was struck by lightning the day my grandmother died and it still stands silver-proud, an antenna connecting us to the ancestors.  www.kingswalden.co.za


Klaserie River at dawn. A whole lot of us get up at dawn and watch the river turn a steamy salmon pink. We are friends together, from around the world for one dawn and a few days in the deep heart of Limpopo’s oldest and one of its biggest private reserves. www.klaseriecamps.com


The Kruger on a soulful self-drive. We take a gentle jaunt from Orpen to Phalaborwa gate via the Timbavati River Road, one of the prettiest and most geographically diverse routes in the park. We crest the hill and there she is – behold the Timbavati River. Hippos and crocs warming up, we look out for leopard but don’t see any, damn. ww.krugerpark.co.za


Zwakala Retreat on the lawn. We eat food and drink Zwakala Beer. We are gathered in friendship, love and kin on a golden afternoon in the Magoebaskloof mountains. The sun beams us up. We are surrounded by rivers and waterfalls, forests, indigenous kloofs and mountain views. www.zwakalaretreat.co.za

Wolkberg Wilderness with a view.  I gaze longingly onto the purple blue mountains of the northern Drakensberg mountains, spine of the massive Wolkberg Wilderness area. Thick indigenous forests, dancing waterfalls, home to many a river source and mountain adventure. www.magoebasklooftourism.co.za


















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