We call Mpumalanga the Slowveld, You know, like the Lowveld, but sultry with extra steam and less speed. More time to explore the ancient mountains, scenic passes, lovely wildlife and fabulous people. Here’s my soul selection.
High upon a White River sunset We park off on the veranda overlooking the Swartfontein Dam in the dreamy hills above White River. We have giant G&Ts and watch the sun slip sexily down the sky. When it gets dark the stars take over. We are off-the-grid, solar-powered, candlelit. We see the Milky Way in glorious detail and listen to the purr of the night. www.krugerlowveld.com
Day
driving through southern Kruger The dawn breaks warm as
we trundle sleepily into southern Kruger, Malelane Gate. It’s spring and there
are babies everywhere. We ooh and aah. At lunch we stop and watch the baby
elephants hold onto their mothers’ tails as they cross the Lower Sabie River. www.krugerpark.co.za
Looking
over the Makhonjwa Mountains My heart sings at the
sight of these wild green mountains on the edge of the Slowveld and Swaziland. The
Barberton Mountain Lands, greenstone rocks dating from the dawn of time. Three
and a half billion years,
some of the oldest on earth containing evidence of life’s first forms. Geologists,
scientists and boffins from NASA have been coming here for years. My best. Faints of happiness. https://www.nightjartravel.com/magazine/makhonjwa-magic
On
the edge of Blyde River Canyon I drop to my knees at
the sight of the Blyde River Canyon. God’s Window. Sheer green cliffs and a silver dam. Highlight of the Slowveld’s Panorama Route, the Blyde is the
third biggest canyon in the world after the USA’S Grand Canyon and Namibia’s Fish
River Canyon. Take a hip flask. www.mpumalanga.com
Jolling
in Nelspruit We’re after a different kind of wild
life now, and there’s fabulous ear candy at Die Stoep, a groovy venue at the
back of a street-facing coffee shop in Sonpark Boulevard. There are pink
pillars and fairy lights and the steps are painted like piano keys. We make friends
with everyone and end up with hangovers. www.diestoep.co.za
Kaapeshoop
on a Sunday Day trippers head up the steep pass to
this eccentric misty village in the mountains. The Bohemian Groove Café is the
soul spot. Great food, strong drink and live music. Kaapsehoop was once a gold rush town - for about ten minutes - and today is famed for its wild horses and lovely
walks, as well as cast of
interesting bistros, bars and fabulous people. www.bohemiangroovecafe.co.za
Roadtripping
the Slowveld By virtue of its geology, the Slowveld offers some of the most scenic and sexiest roads you could hope to
take. We travel the Long Tom Pass, the Abel Erasmus Pass
(slipping through the Strijdom Tunnels), the Saddleback Pass. We drive the
Panorama Route and into the Wild Frontier and off to Mozambique, destination Maputo where spicy
food and groovy people await. www.mpumalanga.com
