Into the Liuwa Floodplains

I experience the eternal poetry of rivers as we fly over the upper Zambezi floodplains of western Zambia. These aerial views are heartbreakingly beautiful. Bounded by the Luambimba and Luanginga Rivers, the floodplains are underwater and inaccessible during the rainy season, then as the waters recede so this ancient wilderness area reveals itself.  This place is remote – a two-and-a-half hour flight from the capital Lusaka, an hour's river crossing via pontoon, depending on the season, and a three hour drive into the Liuwa National Park. 

We fall into the friendly arms of the sexy new five-star King Lewanika Lodge, which is deep in the heart of the plains and was designed by acclaimed South African architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens. They also designed Norman Carr’s flagship camp Chinzombo, in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park; and Miavana, a new lodge in Madagascar, both marketed by Time + Tide.  King Lewanika Lodge is a funky new take on the traditional tented camp.  

Our first sunset is spectacular. I am a complete slut for a good African sunset and this one really rates. I'm travelling with Sally Young - both of us from Sawubona magazine - and our sunset drill is Grey Goose vodka and and tonic and lots of ooh-ing and aah-ing, much to the delight of our guide Rabi and tracker Mr K. We can’t believe how lucky we are. They agree.

In the next few days we explore the soul spaces of the Liuwa floodplains. One morning, we stand in a spot where all around is flat and golden. 360 delicious degrees of flat and golden, except for a small koppie and a lone palm tree that break the horizon. You’d think it would be still and quiet but it’s not. It’s so busy. I’ve never seen so many birds in my life as out here. Under ancient skies, endlessly busy birds. Clouds of pranticoles, flocks of herons. Crowned and wattled cranes, fish eagles, herons, egrets, storks, thick knees, hamerkops, secretary birds, pelicans. An egret rookery with thousands of fluffy cheeping chicks.

The guides at King Lewanika Lodge are seriously good birders. You will see lifers - ours was a rose-throated longclaw and a lesser jacana. The guides explain the magic of the mood swings of Liuwa. We also saw hyenas, jackals, plains game, as well as this gorgeous male lion cub, who looked like he was learning to write.

This guy is descended from the famous Lady Liuwa who was once the last forlorn lion in the Liuwa national park, the others all hunted out. Other lions were then successfully reintroduced. The lions had just eaten when we saw them in the afternoon. This cub was playful and curious and approached the vehicle; the other cub was so stuffed he couldn't even roll over, just lay on his back with his tummy in the air. Their mother watched with those eyes. 

King Lewanika Lodge in the Liuwa plains was one of the most extraordinary places I have ever visited. Not just the fabulous staff and the delightful manager Noelien - but everything. The space, the style, the soul; the legends of the Lozi people who live here. I dream of it often, the faraway, golden wilderness that stole a piece of my heart ...

I didn't ever want to leave the Liuwa Floodplains. I wanted to be dropped off at the Hashtag Bar - a little place I spotted on our drive out of the town of Kalabo - to stay forever in awe of the riverside people here, whose lives are determined by the rise and fall of the flood plains. 

This little-known region of Zambia is a showcase of transformation. Since 2003, the park has been managed by African Parks through a public-private partnership with the Zambian Government, the Zambia Wildlife Authority (ZAWA) and the Barotse Royal Establishment, and now Norman Carr Safaris.

Contact: www.normancarrsafaris.com; bookings@normancarrsafaris.com; www.timeandtideafrica.com